Home Get Inspired Pendants Compass Rose Pendant — Sterling Silver With Sapphires

A dimensional sterling silver compass rose pendant with an openwork star and curved blade design, four small blue sapphires set at the tips of the directional points, a matte circular background, and an oval bail on a rope chain.

Compass Rose Pendant — Sterling Silver With Sapphires

Sterling silver, sapphires

A returning client asked us to remake a compass-rose pendant she'd had made once before, this time smaller at about 1.25 inches and with a simpler four-sapphire layout instead of the original's fuller stone setting. She wanted it to look almost identical to the first piece, right down to the matte-finished dimensional background and the oversized bail. When it arrived, she wrote: 'This piece is stunning. Once again you've done an incredible job!'

'Looks great Tricia! I love it, so definitely would like to move forward on it' — on seeing the render

'Hi Tricia, this piece is stunning. Once again you've done an incredible job! I absolutely love working with you!' — on delivery

Start your project

For herself Complete the Set Second piece in a series

Quick specs

Design type

Pendants

Primary Metal

Sterling silver

Shape / Cut

Other

Primary Stone

Sapphire

Accent Stones

Sapphires

Style

3D Cuban chain compatible Matte finish Nautical Nugget texture Symbolic

Design Complexity

Complex

Intent

Complete the Set Second piece in a series

Intent: Certainty

High

Size

Pendant approximately 1.25in diameter. Bail sized to fit 8mm chain.

How they made it distinctive

01
Compass-rose motif recreated from a prior commission — a second piece in an ongoing design relationship with the same studio
02
Stone count reduced from the original's full layout to four sapphires, one on each directional tip, to suit the smaller 1.25-inch scale
03
Dimensional raised structure over a matte-textured recessed background creates contrast without added color
04
Oversized bail specifically sized to fit an 8mm chain rather than a standard thin chain
05
Blue sapphires chosen over diamond or other stones for color and durability at a smaller accent scale

How you'd make it yours

Stone type: this piece uses natural sapphires; a new commission could use lab sapphires, moissanite, or a different colored stone for a distinct look

Metal: this piece is sterling silver; the same compass design works in 14k gold or two-tone metal

Stone count: this piece has four accent stones; a new piece could use a single center stone, a full ring of stones, or additional accents

Size: this piece is sized at approximately 1.25 inches; a new commission is sized to the wearer's own preference

Bail: this piece has an oversized bail for an 8mm chain; a new piece can be sized to any chain width

One of a kind: this exact pendant was designed for one client's second commission and is not reproduced — a new piece is an original design inspired by this one, not a copy

Design changes made

The client's initial idea of a single center gemstone was changed during discussion with her husband to four sapphires set at the directional tips instead, matching the placement style of the largest stone in her reference photo but reduced from the original piece's stone count.

Who this is for

This piece is for someone who found a design they loved and wants to keep coming back to it — whether at a new scale, with a different stone count, or as a second piece in a growing collection. It's especially right for anyone who wants the reassurance of working with a design they already trust, refined rather than reinvented.

How it's made

Once the design was approved from the 3D render, the piece moved into a quality assurance review of the design before production, and the sterling silver was cast from the finalized model. The dimensional compass-rose structure — raised directional points, central ring, and open lattice detailing — was captured in this casting step, along with the oversized bail sized to fit an 8mm chain. After casting, the raised directional points and outer edge were polished to a bright finish while the recessed background areas were left with a matte texture, creating contrast between the raised and sunken design elements. The four blue sapphires were then set by hand into the tips of the main directional points, sourced and fitted to match the setting dimensions established in the render.

Key note

The contrast between the piece's polished raised elements and matte recessed background is achieved by finishing those two zones separately before the stones are set, since polishing after setting risks scratching the sapphires.

Pricing guidance

A dimensional sterling silver pendant with hand-set sapphire accents in a complex openwork design sits in the mid range for silver custom pendants. The cost is driven mainly by the 3D modeling and casting required to achieve the raised, dimensional compass structure, plus the labor of setting four individual stones. Metal choice and stone count are what move the price most from there.

Moves price up ↑

↑
Upgrading from sterling silver to 14k or 18k gold
↑
Increasing the stone count beyond four, or adding a center stone in addition to the directional stones
↑
Enlarging the pendant beyond 1.25 inches, which increases metal volume and casting complexity
↑
Using natural sapphires of larger size or higher clarity grade
↑
Adding two-sided detailing or engraving on the reverse

Moves price down ↓

↓
Reducing the design to a flat (non-dimensional) silhouette rather than a raised structure
↓
Using cubic zirconia or lab-created stones instead of natural sapphires
↓
Simplifying the openwork lattice detail to a solid background
↓
Reducing the stone count to one or two accent stones
↓
Choosing a smaller overall pendant size

Questions people ask

How durable are sapphires in a pendant you wear every day?

Sapphires are rated 9 on the Mohs hardness scale, making them one of the most durable gemstones available and second only to diamond. This makes them an excellent choice for a pendant that will be worn regularly, since they resist scratching from everyday contact with clothing and skin. Sapphires also hold their color well over time and don't require special care beyond standard jewelry cleaning. Small sapphire accents set into metal tips, like the ones on this pendant, are well protected from impact by the surrounding metalwork.

Does sterling silver tarnish, and how do you take care of it?

Sterling silver (.925 silver) can tarnish over time when exposed to air and moisture, developing a dull or darkened surface, especially in recessed detail areas. Regular wear actually helps slow tarnishing on raised, frequently-touched surfaces, since the friction keeps them polished. A soft polishing cloth restores shine to raised areas, while recessed matte-textured areas are generally left alone since the contrast is part of the design. Storing the piece in a dry place, away from humidity, when not being worn will also help slow the tarnishing process.

What does a custom dimensional pendant like this typically cost?

A dimensional sterling silver pendant with a complex raised design and multiple hand-set sapphires typically falls in the mid range for custom silver pendants. The primary cost driver is the 3D modeling and casting work needed to achieve a raised, sculptural structure rather than a flat design, along with the labor to individually set each stone. Stone count, stone type, and pendant size are the main variables that move the price up or down from a base design like this.

Can you recreate a pendant you made for me before, but smaller or with a different stone layout?

Yes, recreating or adapting a previous design is a common request. The process starts by using the original photos and description as reference for a new 3D render, which lets you compare the new design against the piece you already have before anything is cast. Changes like size adjustments, stone count, or stone placement can all be incorporated into the new render for approval. This makes it possible to keep a design's identity consistent across pieces while adjusting scale or detail.

How long does it take to make a custom silver pendant like this?

The full process from design approval to delivery typically takes four to five weeks on a standard timeline. The first week covers the 3D render and any adjustments needed to get the design approved. Once approved, casting, finishing, and hand-setting the stones take another three to four weeks before the piece ships. Rush timelines are available in some cases if a firm deadline applies.

What's the difference between a flat pendant and a dimensional one like this?

A flat pendant is cast as a single plane with engraved or etched surface detail, while a dimensional pendant like this one has raised, three-dimensional structure — in this case, directional points and a lattice design that stand up from a recessed background. Dimensional pendants require more complex 3D modeling and casting because the design has actual depth and layered surfaces rather than just surface texture. This also allows for finish contrast, like pairing a polished raised structure with a matte recessed background, which isn't possible on a flat design. The tradeoff is a longer design and casting process compared to a simpler flat piece.

Can this compass-rose design be made with different gemstones?

Yes, the four accent stones can be substituted with a range of other gemstones depending on preference and budget. Options include lab-created sapphires or moissanite for a similar look at a different price point, or other colored stones like emeralds or rubies for a different color story. The setting style at each directional tip is small, so the stone size is typically modest regardless of which gem is chosen.

Is an 8mm chain bail unusual, and can bail size be customized?

An 8mm bail opening is on the larger side, generally sized to accommodate a thicker chain style like a rope or Cuban link rather than a delicate standard chain. Bail size is a straightforward customization on a piece like this, and it's typically decided early in the design process based on what chain the wearer already owns or intends to use. Matching the bail to a specific chain width ensures the pendant hangs correctly and doesn't shift or bind against the bail opening.