Cuban Chain Choker with Diamond Circle in 14k Gold
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14k yellow gold, lab-created diamonds
S. came to us wanting a Cuban-style choker with quality gold and a circular centerpiece in place of the usual nameplate lettering. After trying a lettered mockup, he asked for something more traditional and minimal instead — just a single row of diamonds around a plain O, kept stationary against the chain. He wrote when it arrived: 'Looks wonderful!'
'Looks wonderful!' — on delivery
Quick specs
Design type
Primary Metal
Shape / Cut
Primary Stone
Accent Stones
Design Complexity
Intent: Certainty
Size
Necklace total length 15in. Chain 8mm curb/Cuban link. Center O ring 20mm diameter, single row of 28 round diamonds at 1.75mm each.
How they made it distinctive
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01
Circle centerpiece replaces traditional nameplate lettering entirely — a deliberate departure from the letter-based Cuban chain design it was inspired by
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02
Diamond-set O kept minimal with a single row of stones after the client asked for a more traditional look than the original layout
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03
Connection links between the O and chain fixed stationary rather than moving, to protect the diamond edge from metal wear over time
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04
Chain sourced longer than needed and shortened to an exact 15-inch true choker length rather than a standard collarbone length
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05
Solid 8mm curb/Cuban chain construction chosen over hollow links for long-term durability
How you'd make it yours
Centerpiece shape: this piece uses a circle; a new commission could use an oval, a letter, or another geometric outline
Diamond arrangement: this piece uses a single row of 28 diamonds; a new piece could use a double row or a different stone count
Metal: this piece is 14k yellow gold; the same design language works in 18k yellow gold or white gold
Chain width: this piece uses an 8mm curb chain; a new commission could go narrower for a lighter feel or wider for more presence
One of a kind: this exact choker was designed for one client and is not reproduced — a new commission is an original piece inspired by this one, not a copy
Design changes made
The centerpiece started as a stylized 'O' replacing letters in a nameplate-style design, but after seeing the first render the client asked for a simpler, more traditional circle with a single row of diamonds instead. The connection points were also made stationary rather than moving, to keep the metal from sliding over the diamond edge.
Who this is for
This piece is for someone who wants the weight and presence of a solid gold chain without spelling anything out — a plain geometric statement instead of initials or a name. It fits someone who prefers a more traditional, minimal aesthetic even within a bold chain style, and who values durability details like a stationary stone setting for daily wear.
How it's made
Once the design was approved, the piece moved into a design quality assurance check before a wax model was 3D printed and shared with the client as a resin preview. The wax was then set on a tree, invested in plaster, and fired in a kiln to burn out the wax and leave a hollow mold. Molten 14k yellow gold was cast into the mold, then cooled and extracted for finishing. The Cuban-style curb chain itself was sourced longer than needed from an Italian supplier and links were removed to reach the exact 15-inch length requested.
After casting, the O centerpiece was cleaned, polished, and its connection points to the chain were fixed in a stationary position rather than a moving link, protecting the diamond edge from metal contact during wear. Twenty-eight round lab-created diamonds, each 1.75mm, were then set in a single row around the circle before the full chain received its final polish.
Key note
The links joining the diamond-set O to the chain were deliberately fixed in place rather than left free-moving, since a swinging connection could let the metal edge slide across and eventually scratch the diamonds.
Pricing guidance
A solid gold Cuban-style choker with a diamond-set centerpiece sits at the higher end for chain-based custom pieces, largely because of the gold weight in a solid heavy-link chain of this width. Diamond count and total carat weight on the centerpiece are secondary cost drivers. Chain width and karat are where the price moves most from there.
Moves price up ↑
- ↑ Widening the chain from 8mm to 10mm or more adds substantial gold weight
- ↑ Upgrading to 18k gold increases the gold content per link
- ↑ Increasing the diamond count or size on the centerpiece ring
- ↑ Choosing natural diamonds instead of lab-created for the same look
- ↑ Adding a matching bracelet or pendant to complete a set
Moves price down ↓
- ↓ Narrowing the chain width to 6mm reduces gold weight significantly
- ↓ Reducing the diamond count around the centerpiece
- ↓ Choosing a hollow or semi-hollow chain construction instead of solid links
- ↓ Using 10k gold instead of 14k
- ↓ Simplifying the centerpiece to a plain polished ring with no stones
Questions people ask
A solid 8mm curb or Cuban-style chain uses a significant amount of gold because every link is fully solid rather than hollow or semi-hollow. This is what gives the chain its substantial weight and durability, but it also means solid heavy-link chains carry a higher gold cost than thinner or hollow styles. The weight scales directly with both the width of the chain and its total length. A narrower chain or a shorter length will noticeably reduce the amount of gold required.
Lab-created and natural diamonds are chemically and optically identical — same hardness, same brilliance, same appearance to the eye. For small stones like the 1.75mm diamonds used around a circle centerpiece, there is no visible difference between the two. The main distinction is origin and cost, with lab-created diamonds typically priced lower than natural diamonds of equivalent size and quality. Many clients choose lab-created for exactly this reason when the stones are small and numerous.
Yes, a solid link chain like a Cuban or curb style can generally be shortened by removing links, which is a straightforward adjustment. Lengthening is more involved, since it requires sourcing and adding matching links rather than simply extending the existing metal. For that reason, it's common to build in slightly extra length upfront and shorten later if needed, rather than risk having to lengthen afterward. This is worth discussing with your jeweler before finalizing the exact length.
When a diamond-set element like a circle centerpiece connects to a chain through a moving link, the metal can shift and rub against the edge of the stones over time with normal wear. Fixing the connection points in a stationary position prevents that movement, protecting the diamonds from repeated contact with the metal edge. This is a small design decision but it meaningfully extends how well the setting holds up over years of daily wear. It's a detail worth asking about on any pave-set piece attached to a chain.
A solid gold Cuban-style choker with a diamond-set centerpiece sits toward the higher end of custom chain pricing, primarily driven by the gold weight in a solid wide-link chain. The diamonds themselves are a smaller portion of the overall cost when they are small pave-style stones rather than a large center stone. Chain width, length, and karat of gold are the biggest levers on price. Choosing a narrower chain or lower karat gold are the most direct ways to bring the cost down.
A custom piece like this typically takes about one week for the design phase, including the 3D render and any revisions, followed by three to four weeks of production. Production includes 3D printing a wax or resin model, casting the metal, sourcing and removing chain links to reach the exact length, setting the diamonds, and final polishing. Sourcing a solid chain in the correct width sometimes adds a little extra time since heavier chains are less commonly kept in ready stock. Most clients see their finished piece within five to six weeks of approving the final design.
Yes, a centerpiece like this can be designed in other shapes such as an oval, a letter, or a geometric form, since the underlying construction — a diamond-set frame fixed onto a chain — works the same way regardless of the outline. The main consideration is making sure the connection points to the chain remain stationary if there are stones set close to the edge. More complex or angular shapes may require slightly more hand-finishing to keep the pave setting clean. This is a flexible starting point for a variety of centerpiece designs.
A 15-inch necklace sits closer to the neck than a standard 16 to 18-inch chain, which is why it's classified as a true choker length rather than a collarbone-length piece. Whether it feels too tight depends on individual neck size and personal preference, so it's worth measuring carefully or trying on a similar-length piece before committing. Some people prefer to start slightly longer, such as 15.5 inches, since a chain can be shortened more easily than lengthened later. Solid link chains in particular are straightforward to adjust down in length if needed.
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