Pave Diamond Octopus Hoop Earrings in White Gold
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14k white gold, lab diamonds, black diamonds
A client found a reference photo of a squid-shaped dangle earring and wanted his own version made as close to it as possible, with a double row of diamonds on the hoop and a fully pave-set squid charm with black diamond eyes. After the first render, he asked for more dimensional tentacle texture and a different eye shape, and approved the adjustments the jeweler could make within the piece's small scale. When the finished pair arrived, he wrote: "they look perfect and couldnt have wanted it any other way."
'thats crisp!!' — on seeing the first render
'they look perfect and couldnt have wanted it any other way.' — on delivery
Quick specs
Primary Metal
Shape / Cut
Primary Stone
Accent Stones
Design Complexity
Intent: Certainty
Size
Squid pendant approximately dime-sized (about 18mm). Double-row pave hoop base.
How they made it distinctive
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01
Octopus charm fully pave-set with round lab diamonds rather than left as a plain polished silhouette
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02
Round black diamonds used for the eyes for contrast, chosen after oval stones proved unavailable at this small scale
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03
Double row of pave diamonds on the hoop itself, carrying the sparkle from the ear down to the charm
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04
Charm hung on a jump ring at the hinge point so the hoop can still open and close normally
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05
Sized to a dime-sized scale specifically requested by the client for a wearable, not oversized, dangle
How you'd make it yours
Stone type: this piece uses lab diamonds — a new commission could use moissanite for a similar look at lower cost, or natural diamonds for a different sourcing story
Charm size: this piece is dime-sized — a new piece could be made larger or smaller depending on the wearer's preference
Metal: this piece is 14k white gold — the same design works in yellow or rose gold
Hoop style: this piece uses a double-row pave hoop — a new commission could use a single row or a plain polished hoop
One of a kind: this exact pair was designed for one client from his own reference photo and is not reproduced — a new commission is an original piece inspired by this one, not a copy
Design changes made
The client asked for more 3D texture on the tentacles and a vertical oval eye shape instead of round after seeing the first render. The jeweler added subtle texture to approximate the tentacle detail but kept the eyes round, since no small oval black diamonds were available at this scale — the client approved the adjustment.
Who this is for
This piece is for someone who has a specific, maybe unusual, design already pictured in their head — in this case, from their own reference photo — and wants it built with real stones and real craftsmanship rather than treated as a novelty. It suits a wearer who likes dangle earrings that move and catch the light, and who is comfortable working through small material-availability tradeoffs to get the closest possible match to their vision.
How it's made
Once the design was approved, the hoops were sourced first and a 3D model of the squid charm was built and 3D-printed in wax. The wax model was attached to a tree, invested in plaster, and fired in a kiln to burn out the wax before 14k white gold was cast into the resulting mold. After casting, each piece was cleaned, polished, and prepared for stone setting.
The octopus charms were pave-set by hand with round lab diamonds covering the head and curled tentacles, with two round black diamonds set in as eyes. The hoops were finished with their own pave row along the front face before the octopus charms were attached through the hinge at the bottom of each hoop, allowing the charm to swing freely.
Key note
The octopus charm was deliberately left able to swing from the hoop's hinge because adding a fixed connection would have prevented the hoop from opening and closing properly.
Pricing guidance
A sculptural pave-set charm earring like this, combined with a double-row diamond hoop, sits toward the higher end of custom earring pricing. Most of the cost comes from the diamond count and the hand-setting labor required to pave a small dimensional charm, rather than from the base metal itself. Stone choice and carat total are what move the price most from there.
Moves price up ↑
- ↑ Using natural diamonds instead of lab-grown diamonds throughout the piece
- ↑ Increasing the size of the charm beyond a dime-sized scale, which adds more stones and setting time
- ↑ Upgrading to platinum instead of 14k white gold
- ↑ Adding more intricate textural detailing to the tentacles
- ↑ Using higher-clarity or larger black diamonds for the eyes
Moves price down ↓
- ↓ Switching the pave diamonds to moissanite, as was offered during this project
- ↓ Reducing the hoop to a single row of pave diamonds instead of a double row
- ↓ Making the charm smaller than dime-sized
- ↓ Using a plain polished hoop with no stones
- ↓ Reducing the diamond density on the charm to an outline or accent pattern instead of full pave coverage
Questions people ask
Yes, a reference photo is a normal starting point for a custom design. The design team builds a 3D model and sketch based on what's shown, then sends a photorealistic render for approval before anything is cast. Small details — like stone shape or added texture — can often be adjusted at the render stage, though physical limitations like stone availability at very small sizes can affect what's possible. Scale is also something to flag early, since a reference photo rarely shows a piece at its true size.
Lab-grown and natural diamonds are chemically and visually identical — same hardness, same brilliance, same durability for daily wear. The difference is origin and cost: lab diamonds are grown in a controlled setting and typically cost less than natural diamonds of the same clarity and size. For a pave-set design using many small stones, that cost difference compounds quickly, which is why lab diamonds are a common choice for fully pave-covered pieces like this one.
A pave-set piece with round lab diamonds set in 14k white gold is reasonably durable for regular wear, since diamonds rank a 10 on the Mohs hardness scale and won't scratch or chip under normal conditions. The more delicate part is the setting itself — a dimensional charm with curled, thin tentacle details has more surface area exposed to knocks than a flat design. Occasional inspection to confirm no prongs have loosened is a good habit for any pave piece worn often.
It depends on the hoop's construction. On a hinged huggie hoop, the charm typically needs to stay on a jump ring so it can move freely, because fixing it in place would interfere with the hinge opening and closing. A fixed, non-swinging charm is usually only possible on a solid, non-hinged hoop design, so that preference is worth raising before the hoop style is finalized.
A piece combining a fully pave-set dimensional charm with a double-row diamond hoop falls toward the higher end of custom earring pricing, mainly because of the number of stones and the hand-setting labor involved. The base metal is a smaller factor than the diamond total weight and setting complexity. Choosing moissanite instead of diamonds, or reducing the hoop to a single row, are two ways the price comes down without changing the overall design.
A piece like this typically takes about one week for the design and render stage, followed by three to four weeks for production once the design is approved. Production includes sourcing the stones, building and printing the wax model, casting, and hand-setting every diamond. Complex pave-set dimensional charms can sometimes run slightly longer than a simple setting because of the stone-setting time involved.
Yes, black diamonds are a common choice for small accent details like eyes on an animal or character charm, since they offer strong contrast against white diamonds or white gold. Availability can be limited at very small sizes or unusual shapes, such as a small oval cut, so round black diamonds are the most reliably sourced option for tiny detail work. This is a practical sourcing consideration rather than a durability one, since black diamonds are just as hard as white diamonds.
A reference image can be matched very closely, but not always pixel-for-pixel, especially at small scale. Some visual details in a photo — like a highly dimensional suction-cup texture — may not translate at dime-sized scale or may require a different technique, like added surface texture instead of literal raised bumps. The design and render stage is where these limitations get worked out with the client before anything is cast.
