The shape of a gemstone is determined by the conditions it was exposed to as it developed, as well as its natural crystal structure. Gem cutters will take these natural shapes and form them into more precise shapes that enhance the stones’ features and make it possible to mount them securely. Diamond shapes have been developed over time, and continue to evolve to meet new techniques, trends, and tastes.
Why is diamond shape so important?
The diamond’s shape is technically the most important factor affecting the diamond’s price, even more than color or clarity. Round diamonds are the most popular today, which is one reason why they are also one of the most expensive shapes. Fancy-shaped diamonds such as the princess, oval, cushion, emerald, pear, marquise, Asscher, heart, and trillion are less popular and tend to be considerably less expensive than round diamonds.
Another reason that round diamond shapes are more expensive is that they require less of the rough diamond. For example, a princess cut diamond generally uses about 80% of the rough diamond’s carat weight so only 20% of the stone is lost during cutting. In contrast, a round diamond only uses about 40% of the original stone, so about 60% of the rough diamond is lost and this material cannot be used for other diamonds.
There are also dozens of diamond shapes to choose from, but the most popular ones are pictured below. We will examine each of these shapes up close.
Loose Diamond Stone Shape Options
The most popular diamond shape on the market, known for its intense sparkle and a place of honor in 90% of engagement rings, the round brilliant cut showcases 58 different facets of a gemstone and is cut to maximize its brilliance, fire and dispersion. It is also popular for other transparent gemstones, accounting for over 75% of the gemstones sold today.
The brilliant cut is famous for extraordinary reflection and dispersion of light, which is caused by the light that returns through the cone shape of the stone. The most popular brilliant cut is the round brilliant, but there are other brilliant cuts such as the pear cut brilliant and the oval cut brilliant. Anything that is not a round cut is called a fancy cut, but fancy cuts can still be considered brilliant. Many people like brilliant cuts because their large open facets make it difficult to hide imperfections, which means they can offer the most facet clarity and accuracy.
The round cut was originally introduced at the end of the 17th century, but it looked quite different then. The focus was on size and color, and the stone featured a flat culet, a 58th facet. Because these diamonds were hand-cut, their brilliance was less of a goal than a side benefit. However, an old-cut diamond certainly glittered in 18th and 19th century candlelight, and due to their uniqueness and rarity, are still quite valuable and sought after by those wishing to own a piece of history. Diamond knowledge, cutting and trends evolved to emphasize brilliance and fire, and by the 1920s, the modern round brilliant cut was well-established.
Round Brilliant Diamond Engagement Ring Styles
Popularly used for engagement rings as well as earring studs, the princess cut has a square (or sometimes a rectangular) shape when looked at from above, and from the side it looks like an upside-down pyramid.
Developed in the 1960’s and sometimes called a quadrillion, it is a modified brilliant cut and offers great fire and brilliance, but be sure to find one with a higher color grade, as yellow tints are easy to spot in this cut.
Princess-cut gemstones work well in a variety of styles from modern to vintage and are right at home in just about any setting including three-stone rings, solitaires, halos, and channels. Because the process of cutting princess-cut diamonds produces a larger yield than round cuts, they can be cheaper than their round counterparts.
Princess Cut Diamond Ring
The romantic oval cut features an elongated round shape. It is a more modern look than the standard round brilliant cut but with the same amount of fire and brilliance. Because of their elongate shapes, oval cuts also make the finger look longer and more slender. With no pointed edges, they are also considered to be more durable and may work well for someone with an active lifestyle.
A length-to-width ratio of 1.35 – 1.50 is considered a classic oval cut, but the ratios can vary. Oval-cut gems also appear to be larger than round-cut gemstones of the same carat weight but are slightly less expensive. Keep an eye out for the ‘bow-tie’ feature that appears in the center of the oval diamond. Some diamonds present this more than others, but it is up to your personal preference.
Oval Diamond with a Halo
Named after the emerald gemstone, the emerald, along with the Asscher cut and the baguette cut, is a type of step cut. It has a rectangular shape with straight linear facets, and unlike the brilliant cut, features small rectangular facets that look like steps.
Many people prefer the emerald cut because it creates a larger surface area, resulting in a larger-looking gemstone. It also makes the finger look slimmer. Beautiful emerald-cut diamonds are known less for their brilliance and glitter and more for their shine and ‘hall of mirrors’ effect.
‘Hall of Mirrors’
‘Dead Spots’ where inclusions are present.
If you are considering purchasing an emerald-cut diamond, it is worth noting that because of the emerald cut’s larger surface area, inclusions and color are easier to spot with the naked eye, making it harder and more expensive to source a highly graded diamond.
However, because emerald cuts are one of the more efficient cuts in diamond cutting, some of the cost can be offset in your favor. When it comes to grading, Look for nothing less than a VS1 or VVS1 clarity grade, and aim for G+ color unless you are placing your stone in a warm gold setting that can improve the look of a lower color rating.
While notoriously fussy to set and difficult to find in good quality and cut, an Asscher cut diamond can be very appealing for those who yearn for the good old days. Asscher cuts are a perfect jewelry representation of art deco, a design movement of the 1920s, and remind us of a dimly lit brasserie, travel by ocean liner, heavy black eyeliner and Ernest Hemingway. It stands to reason that it complements vintage cut settings in necklaces, rings, earrings and other jewelry.
Named after and patented by renowned diamond cutter Joseph Asscher, the Asscher cut is similar to an emerald cut only it is square and octagonal rather than rectangular. Asscher cuts are quite rare, with only 2% of diamonds cut into Asschers. They’re also quite costly because a lot of diamond material gets wasted in achieving the cut.
Asscher (left) / Cushion (right)
Dating back to the 18th century when its design was inspired by the Marquise de Pompadour of France (her lips, to be precise), the marquise cut is unique in its shape and features (58 facets). Although it began as a modified brilliant cut for diamonds, the marquise cut is also widely used for other precious gems such as emeralds, rubies and sapphires.
Its long, narrow shape has the effect of making the finger look longer and more slender. The cut also makes the gemstone look larger than it really is. The marquise cut is sometimes called a football-shaped cut. This shape is relatively inexpensive, makes a bold statement of sensuality and is a great choice.
Marquise Diamond
The radiant shape became popular in the 1970’s, as size and flash became the rage, and this cut has plenty of both. Because its processing creates very little waste, the radiant diamond’s cost stays down, meaning you can size up and not break the bank. Also the relatively deep cut of the pavilion brings out a lot of fire from the facets.
The radiant cut is considered a non-traditional cut because it incorporates both brilliant and step-cut, and is the first square cut to have a complete brilliant-cut facet pattern used on both the crown and the pavilion.
The radiant cut’s silhouette is like an emerald cut, but the radiant cut exhibits far more brilliance and fire. Radiant cuts can be either square or rectangular and can be distinguished by the distinct step cut on the sides and the brilliant facets in the middle.
Radiant Diamond
Like a marquise-cut gemstone, a pear-cut gemstone has an elongated shape, with one end rounded and the other end pointed. Also like the marquise, the pear cut’s unique shape shows off a strong personality in the wearer. As a perfect gem for an engagement ring, it is reminiscent of the tears of joy shed at a wedding, with all the shine and sparkle of the round brilliant cut.
It is a modified brilliant cut and has a versatile style making it good for a vintage, modern, or classic look. On the downside, pear-shaped gemstones tend to be delicate and can easily get chipped on the tapered end. The pear-shape cut is also referred to as a teardrop or pendeloque cut.
Pear Cut Diamond
What could be sweeter than a heart-shaped diamond for your sweetheart? Considered a modified brilliant-cut shape, the heart-shaped cut is a popular engagement ring setting often featured in solitaire rings. Heart-shaped cuts should be symmetrical so that each of the heart’s curved halves (the lobes and wings) are matched identically.
The clefts in the heart should also be precise and well defined. And of course the shape must resemble the iconic, traditional heart shape. It is a complex cut made up of five areas: the belly, cleft, lobe, point and wing.
Heart Cut Diamond
A cushion-cut diamond combines the modern round brilliant cut with the more classic square-cut diamond, creating a square shape with rounded corners. A princess diamond would be a close consideration for someone who wanted a square diamond; however, the cushion cut has a distinctly more vintage feel. Without a single hard edge or corner, its shape resembles a pillow; hence the name ‘cushion cut’.
There are four main types of cushion cuts: ‘Old Mine’, which is the oldest; the brilliant cut, which offers the most brilliance; cushion modified ‘crushed ice’, which is one of the newest cuts; and cushion modified ‘hybrid’, which combines the facet style of the brilliant with the crushed ice facet patterns. The cushion cut produces slightly less wasted raw material during production, and so costs slightly less than a round brilliant cut.
Cushion Cut Diamonds
Like its namesake, the baguette cut is long and rectangular, narrow and usually accompanies a main course. In this ridiculous comparison, the main course is, of course, a larger gemstone. Like the emerald and Asscher cut, the baguette cut is a rectangular-shaped, step-cut diamond with straight or tapered edges. It is one of the most popular cuts for diamond engagement rings.
Emerald-cut and baguette-cut diamonds are sometimes confused, but they are quite different. Emerald-cut diamonds are cut with 50-58 facets, whereas baguette diamonds are cut with 14 facets. Because of its thin shape and low facet count, the baguette-cut diamond usually flanks a center diamond, but its appealing simplicity and symmetry can also be featured as the centerpiece.
Baguette Diamond Ring
Another non-traditional cut, the trillion cut diamond is eye-catching and bold in its equilateral triangle shape, and brings to mind a feeling of enchantment or magic. It is one of the more modern diamond shapes, designed in 1962 by Leon Finker.
The trillion cut can have variations such as rounded corners or slightly curved sides. They are often used as accent stones around a center diamond, but can also stand alone as a solitaire for a unique and bold look.
Trillion Cut Diamond Engagement Ring
